UZI TECH

[BWE Firearms]

In this thread I will be posting information about Uzi gunsmithing and Uzi parts information I have learned over the years.

 

[BWE Firearms]

There are two different styles of fire control groups in the Uzi. The Old style and the New style. If you mix the parts the trigger will not always reset in semi auto.

 

[BWE Firearms]

IMI blueprints for 9mm Uzi barrels call for a 10" twist. This makes Uzis perfect for shooting heavy subsonic bullets. We use 10" twist blanks to make all our 9mm Uzi barrels.

 

[BWE Firearms]

Model "A" rear sight screws and pistol grip screws are the same screw. Forend screws are a different screw.

 

[BWE Firearms]

When you are cleaning your Uzi put your finger on the front of the ejector and make sure it doesn't wiggle at all. The ejector should be riveted firmly in place.

 

[medphys]

I don't have an Uzi, but enjoy these posts here and on Facebook. Hopefully I'll get down to Fl this winter to shoot with y'all.

Thanks!

 

[BWE Firearms]

I'm glad you like these little tidbits of information. I will continue to come up with them.

Don't forget to like us on Facebook at BWE Firearms and Uzi HQ.

 

[kf4zra]

Richard,
I learned a lot from you in our hour or so long chat a month ago when I dropped off my finicky Norinco. After talking with you, learning from your posts, and learning from others here, I have decided to take the step of buying a FA UZI to go along with the one you are working on. The fact that one of the most renowned UZI-smiths in the country is only a few hrs from my house makes the step of buying my first SMG a little less daunting.
Any and all info you provide is very valuable to me.
Thanks for the all posts, I always look forward to them
John

 

[mmi]

what do you think of the extra safety on German guns that keeps bolts back when safety is on . worth making it fit the gun or just cut of the grip ?

 

[BWE Firearms]

what do you think of the extra safety on German guns that keeps bolts back when safety is on . worth making it fit the gun or just cut of the grip ?

I don't see the need for the bolt safety. If you don't want your Uzi to go off when you jump out of a truck simply close the bolt on an empty chamber then put the magazine in. It doesn't get any safer then that.

Disassemble the lower and take the bolt stop out. You will also need to grind the top actuator leg off the rear top of the selector lever so it is even with the top.

 

[fargo007]

If you don't want your Uzi to go off when you jump out of a truck simply close the bolt on an empty chamber then put the magazine in. It doesn't get any safer then that.

^^ This right here. This is how a submachinegun should be carried in a vehicle. Bolt closed on empty chamber, selector on semi. All you have to do to ready it is run the action and it's already on semi so it takes an affirmative decision to select automatic fire.

/Fargo007

 

[BWE Firearms]

When purchasing a registered receiver Uzi submachine gun make sure the semi auto blocking bar has been removed. We can bring everything else up to SMG specifications if you want.

 

[BWE Firearms]

If your Uzi SMG uses a semi auto barrel and you don't want to have your Uzi converted to use SMG barrels, our clearanced bolt has been machined to clear the restrictor ring on your feed ramp.

 

[Garrett]

^^ This right here. This is how a submachinegun should be carried in a vehicle. Bolt closed on empty chamber, selector on semi. All you have to do to ready it is run the action and it's already on semi so it takes an affirmative decision to select automatic fire.

That works for the Uzi with its grip safety. Not so much for some other open bolt subguns. The MAC-style subguns have a heavy enough recoil spring that I can't see there being much of an issue with them firing if dropped either.

But I can see where a gun like a STEn or a Sterling could have problems if dropped on the butt from very high up (like out of a truck). The springs are relatively weak for the weight of the bolt, and I can see where it would not be that hard to get the bolt to travel far enough to strip a round from the magazine. It's actually more safe to keep them cocked with the bolt handle in the "safety" notch.

 

[fargo007]

That works for the Uzi with its grip safety. Not so much for some other open bolt subguns. The MAC-style subguns have a heavy enough recoil spring that I can't see there being much of an issue with them firing if dropped either.

But I can see where a gun like a STEn or a Sterling could have problems if dropped on the butt from very high up (like out of a truck). The springs are relatively weak for the weight of the bolt, and I can see where it would not be that hard to get the bolt to travel far enough to strip a round from the magazine. It's actually more safe to keep them cocked with the bolt handle in the "safety" notch.

This is exactly how an open bolt subgun should be carried in a vehicle (bolt closed on empty chamber). I own a sterling. There is no safety notch. Besides if there's energy stored on the bolt it's much easier to cause it to release and discharge a round than to create AND release such energy on a totally relaxed spring.

What BWE suggested is what is taught pretty much universally.

 

[mmi]

thanks
my sector moves past the f auto spot what part do you think is problem

 

[BWE Firearms]

Is it a factory 3 position selector lever and a factory SMG lower. When some of the semi auto lowers were converted to SMG the slot for the selector lever lower leg was opened up too far forward allowing the selector to move past the full auto position. Likewise semi auto selectors that were converted to SMG can have the SMG notch in the wrong place.

 

[Hardsports]

Hi Richard,

I have a Vector mini that has a problem with light primer strikes. I'll get 2 or 3 to fire and then click. Eject a round chamber another and I'll get a couple more to fire and then click. I have sent the gun back to them 2 times and it IS better but still not working acceptably. I've been around all sorts of platforms for many years so I am not new to the physics and adjusting bits to make things work. I believe the ejector and the firing pin safety trip aren't playing too well together. Which is easier to adjust in your opinion? I believe it would be easier to disassemble to bolt and remove the safety trip and try to increase it's angle for an earlier engagement to allow the firing pin base to move forward and seat into the bolt just a bit earlier than it would be to try to add onto the ejector. I can manually move the bolt and striker without the springs and the safety trip doesn't seem to move enough to get out of the way and then the firing pin then hits it which prevents it from moving fully forward. What do you think?

 

[BWE Firearms]

First thing to look at is make sure the bolt is closing completely. Some guns do not chamber a round smoothly and kinks the bullet in the case so it will not fully chamber. As long as the ejector is centered in the slot of the bolt there is very little adjusting to be one. If the ejector is out of spec it needs to be replaced. You can make small adjustments to the firing pin stop.

 

[klyph12]

I have 2 top covers for my Uzi - one has very pronounced teeth for the cocking knob and the other one seems to be cut with much smaller teeth. Is that just different manufacturers or is it a problem ?

thanks