Stupid proof reloading equipment?

Gaujo

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I have decided long ago not to get into reloading because I am not a meticulous person, and I fear that would lead to a squib in my open bolt transferables.

How much would it cost for automated reloading equipment where I would not be manually loading, just be making sure hoppers were full?
 
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root

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A lot and the chance or things happening are pretty good in a bad way.

I buy a lot of pull downs that come out of machines.

Every thing from primers in wrong to 1/2 charge or bullet in upside down.


The worse thing with a automated setup is once things go sideways the machine will either crash hard or make the same error repeatedly.

I was just discussing with a board member on the phone how me and my kids tore down 500 + 300 BLKOUT rounds that were factory mistakes in 45 minutes or so with kinetic bullet pullers.

Out of all the ammo tore down only 4 cases were crushed and not usable. and about 200 had sideways or backwards primes with about 50 of them bullet seated the wrong way.

All we had to do was correct the primes use the right powder charge and it was corrected.

Not saying to not get automated just remember it's far from fail safe.

Best bet would be to get a dillion 1050 with all the bells and whistles and just crank the handle paying close attention to your product before, during, and after assembly.

And a final look when you are stuffing mags.


Rich
 

Hey...

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You still have to set up the machine. Automated is the pinnacle, you should practice with manual presses (even a manual progressive like a Dillon 550c) before you go automated.
 

KickStand

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I’ve got two Dillon 1050’s, one for large primer and one for small primer (over kill but got one used for a great price). I had a Dillon 550 and gave it to my brother. I REGRET THAT. The 1050’s are great but there’s a lot of small details thats best learned on a slower machine. My biggest complaint with the 1050’s are the caliber conversions, they cost a lot of money to get everything.
Basically all I’m reloading now is 380, 9mm, 45, 223 and 308 due to the cost of the conversions.
I wouldn’t go that route just yet but that’s my opinion.

Check out the 550. I’m going to prolly get another one because the caliber conversions are extremely reasonably priced compared to the 1050’s. You can still crank out a good amount of ammo with the 550. There’s other good options and name brands but I started with a blue press when I was a kid and never looked back.
 

Fishman

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If you use a single stage press and pick a powder that doesnt allow double charges. Its pretty idiot proof. My 270 load is actually a compressed load. Its not possible to blow up my 270 using that powder.
 

root

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I've still got my 550 and now have enough extras to buy the 300 frame from Dillion and have another completed 550 so like mentioned I don't have to switch from the large to small setup.

I mention the 1050 because it can be automated if one so wishes. BUT it also does all the work you just have to set it up watch it and crank a handle.

What I do now is try to make a small coffee can of ammo every day or at least the components in said can every day.

Once done it's just a matter of getting it put together. I do most everything in stages so at the end it looks and shows I did something.

I just sorted two rather large bags of brass that were given to me today not much done but it's something and makes progress.

Rich
 

Ge-mini-gun

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Nothing is stupid proof…nothing. With that said I’d get a used XL-650 if you can find one. They have auto indexing that prevents double charges which can happen with the 550, as the base plate has to be manually rotated to next station. Last March (2019) I loaded 3k 9mm in a little under 3 hrs, granted I had everything close and the primer tubes loaded, but it’s doable and that is not breaking a sweat. I’m a little different then most loaders in that I find a load that works, is accurate enough for what I’m doing, which is normally turning money into noise, so the cheaper and faster I can make them the better. Also I normally shoot mostly through the summer and fall and do all the reloading in the winter over the course of a couple weeks, then clean and cover the press until next year…only thing I load year round is shotgun as I’m in a skeet league that shoots year round.
 

mattnh

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If you use a single stage press and pick a powder that doesnt allow double charges. Its pretty idiot proof. My 270 load is actually a compressed load. Its not possible to blow up my 270 using that powder.

Good advise re: powder selection - any attempt to double charge will obvious with spilled powder all over...
 

strobro32

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If you find a machine like that, let me know. :) Sounds like a Camdex.

I would not say I was a meticulous, detail oriented person, but that never stopped me from trying anything that required those skills. I did get into reloading after many years of slowly working up to it, collecting brass, lead and information. I do agree that, "Reloading doesn't save money, it just lets you shoot more."

I initially bought a Lee single stage kit and a manual to learn how. Youtube helped. I started making 300 Blackout because it was a $1 around. I paid for the kit in a day. I then moved up to a Dillon 650. I converted about 5K of 223 into blackout and have shoot most of those 2+ times. The 650 paid for itself in a few months making 300 Blackout.

I moved on the casting and powder coating bullets, mostly 9mm, 380 and 300 BO. That saved me $ but it takes time. I enjoy the time doing it, so time is not wasted. They say, "time is money" but that's not true. Time is worth more than money. Spend your time doing what you like.

I would say don't jump on a Camdex without knowing the basics. It's like having a dragster as your first car. I remember reading about how the owner of Black Hills said his loaders know when their Camdex makes a mistake by the sound of every squeak. You can make a bunch of bad ammo with a progressive press. I'm sure even more could be made with a Camdex if the owner lacks basic reloading knowledge. Just look at all the recalls on factory ammo mfgers websites. :)

You wont save money if you are purchasing all the components new. I find most stuff (brass and bullets) at the range. I pay for primers and powder. Brass processing and bullet sizing takes the longest amount of time.

Getting good at anything takes time. Start small and enjoy the build up.
 
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Strangeranger

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For a beginner a 550 is probably the best choice. It's the least automated progressive and really easy to keep track of what's going on, simple enough to empty out and re-start if you get crossed up but is still capable of making large quantities on ammo in a reasonable time. Low tooling costs are an added plus vs. the more fully featured loaders
 

sniperdoc

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1 thing that has not yet been mentioned is, with certain powders, a light charge will detonate rather than burn. This is extremely dangerous!

Nothing is foolproof; a favorite saying of one of my old Military Instructors was "Never underestimate the ingenuity of a determined recruit!"

Re: Reloading Philosophy; there are 2 types of Reloaders= Those who want Quantity, and those who want Quality. Their equipment is as different as their intended product. Some people want Quantity for 1 shooting discipline and Quality for another; they will have separate equipment for each.
 

chili17

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A dillon 650/750 with the low powder check is pretty idiot proof. All machines require tinkering from time to time.
 

arch stanton

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A dillon 650/750 with the low powder check is pretty idiot proof. All machines require tinkering from time to time.

This exactly I use two 650s with all the after market upgrades that Dillon won't incorporate they work great. The key to the Dillon is making damn sure you use the alignment rod you have to ask for one to be sent when you order because I have seen three that were just a bit off and the unit worked for shit. After alignment good to go they are worth the money for sure

Later Joe
 

Jmacken37

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Joe,

If you get a minute could you share the "aftermarket upgrades" you are using that work great?

Thanks!
 

arch stanton

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The shell plate bearing kit, index bearing block and the roller cam pin these are the parts to make it so you won't whip powder around. The extras that you don't need but are nice add a light to the center toolhead hole and a small fiber camera
 

Jmacken37

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These are all non-Dillon parts? If so do you have companies you like for this gear?
 

root

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These are all non-Dillon parts? If so do you have companies you like for this gear?

Ya they are listed on Ebay as one place I've seen them ( no affiliation with the seller)

I have similar stuff on my 550

Most of the ugrades there are under 50 bux after shipping.

The primer bearing is a nice one too if they make it for the 650 keeps the primer slide from hanging up and then popping the primer out to never land when it frees up.

Rich
 

slimshady

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The lights are nice but over-priced. An empty 20 gauge shell fits perfectly in the hole. Buy an LED car replacement bulb on Ebay for about a buck or two and solder some lead wires to it. Run the wires out the primer hole and stuff the light bulb inside the shell. Attach the lead wires to an old 12 volt wall wart transformer, if you want to get fancy you can add quick disconnect plugs, a switch, etc. If you keep a lot of toolheads setup you can easily afford to make one for each so swapping them doesn't involve fishing the light in and out with the dies and stuff in the way.

The 650 uses a rotary priming system, the 750 is the one that goes back to the 550 design. I would assume the same bearing works on it too. Nothing to smooth out the 650 priming system I am aware of.

A couple other upgrades are "switches" to turn off primer and case feeding, Most are 3D printed but a few are machined metal or Delrin. There are also remote bottles that replace the factory spent primer cup, they use a clear tube to route them to an easily emptied large bottle. And there is a small chute live primers that didn't get installed fall down for retrieval. It's called the "ski jump" because that's what the chute resembles, with usually the same results! "Enhanced" add-ons exist to catch them, but with the primer feed cutoff switch and a bit of tap wrapped around it to form a "wall" you really don't need them.
 

strobro32

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I just ordered Snowshooze's Grand Slam. I already have his low mass ball detent. It made a difference with case spill. I've been wanting his primer shut off.

Wow. It shipped within an hour of ordering it.
s-l500.jpg


I like the 20 guage light idea. I just set one of those free Harbor freight LED lights over the hole in the tool head.
13148.jpg



I made a spent primer tube bottle collector. That was very worth it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhg5065XxM4

I need to make something for the primer ski jump besides a piece of tape. :)
 
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chili17

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I need to make something for the primer ski jump besides a piece of tape. :)[/QUOTE]


35mm film canister works well
 
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