Forgive my ignorance, as I'm just starting out, but what would 1018 translate to as a welding rod? Would that be a 7018 stick or something else? If it makes any difference, I'm going to try to keep to a 3/32" rod for now since I'll just be starting out, though I do plan to practice making a straight line for a while before I tackle anything heavy.For what it's worth; most sheet metal in firearms is mild steel. 1018, or if you're hogging parts out of a billet, A36 is a good choice and the two weld together without any problems.
Thanks for sharing that article, that's great info. It looks like for me, the E6011 would be the way to go. I do have one additional question though. Say I was going to attempt to weld on receiver pieces to try making a semi UZI receiver, would the 6011 work for that as well? I'm not planning to heat treat the receiver, but I think I remember reading back in the day that Vector heat treated their receivers once they were completed so I wasn't sure if the metal on receivers is significantly different than on the trigger housing.1018 is usually just referred to as "mild steel". Not a lot of carbon so it won't (can't be) hardened.
With your selector block-into-grip frame job; let it air cool-- don't quench it.
E6011 sounds like it's more forgiving than E7018.
6011 just needs to be kept dry while 7018 is best stored in a heated rod oven.
7018 is more for higher carbon content steels that you may want to temper.
Here's a pretty good article comparing the two. https://weldzone.org/6011-vs-7018/
Always a good idea to practice first; making sure your practice pieces are the same material as the piece you'll be welding.