Uzi kit wood stock, before & after

[UZI SBR AWC]

I had to do it, everybody worried about the condition of kits, wood.

I got mine from TAPCO for the lower and stock. I spent maybe 1.5 hr doing mine. Father in-law has a Craftsman table-belt sander, so it made real quick work on the left and right sides, lightly touch to belt, then do all the bends-radius by hand, finished with 400 wet/dry paper. The metal was sand blasted, may do again, then have Todd @ Ohio Rapid Fire park the stock parts. I still need to add 2" into the stock to increase the pull.

BEFORE-

AFTER-

 

[dustindu4]

looks good

:uzi

 

[UZI SBR AWC]

It is one of the First Tapco kits @ $159-- been sold out a while, Tapco just selling misc pieces now.

I did the sanding my self, and the sand blast to the stocks' metal parts only, the butt plate needs blast some more, and a ding knocked out of it. The top cover in the pic is untouched, and barrel untouched, only run through the parts washer at work.

Todd probably charge maybe $5 if I take the stocks' metal-screws.

 

[mark214]

That looks just like the way my stock turned out.
I bought mine from Sarco a few stains in the wood, I am very happy with mine also. The metal did not need refinishing.

 

[MuzzleFlash]

I went this route and am happy with mine as well. Sure seems strange boiling an uzi stock, but it did the trick for the dings and dents.

Below are the results. Unfortunately I don't have a before picture, but it was pretty ratty. I also left the metal parts alone.

 

[dan d.]

WOW! that looks nice. If it was as bad as some of the ones out of the part kits are then boiling it made a huge difference.

 

[MuzzleFlash]

Yeah, I boiled the heck out of it to raise the dents. Used an old metal pan on the kitchen stove and boiled for 15 minutes. The water looked like tea so I did it again with clean water. Then I let it dry out for a week in a cool but dry area. Besides the dents, it had some spots of blackish mildew or grease to deal with (not sure which). Boiling lightened the spots and turned the wood a greyish driftwood color.

I mostly used sanding sponges from Home Depot. One or two areas had to be sanded with 60 grit paper to remove deep stains. Then I ran the coarse, medium, fine and extra fine sponges.

I deviated slightly from the linked article in the finish application. I really like Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner to get the grain ready for uniform penetration. First time I put conditioner on the wood I found some of the spots I thought I'd gotten sanded out were still there. It took a bit of elbow grease to sand them completely out. This was the key to getting the results I wanted though.

The last step was applying Minwax Colonial Maple combination stain & finish. I'm kinda partial to the redish hues. Be sure to do this in the time window described on the conditioner label. Instead of sanding it in, I applied the conditioner and finish with a brush.

If you go this route, you may find that you don't need a second coat. My second coat wouldn't dry for days. I probably should have just left well enough alone.