I designed and manufacturer the Sterling mount discussed. I'd love to get feedback and refine the application of this device. I have been discussing this with another member of the forum, and want to make it the best product possible for the user. I welcome questions/suggestions/critique!
A shimming method or procedure would be a great place to start the discussion. @hacker (I believe) has been working on mounting his, and we've discussed a few options. He had a good proof of concept process but it will likely be tedious. I'll let him explain if he has a moment.
For what it's worth, I'm happy to further discuss our design or work on changes. feel free to tag or message us!
I bought one of these a couple weeks ago to try out. My Sterling is an Andrewski gun with very thick crinkle paint. The end cap would not fit on without sanding down the muzzle and I did not want to do that. I tried it on my son's Sterling that has flat paint and it fit perfect. I also tried it on parts kits and it fits, so my gun is one off.
When I mounted it on my son's, the alignment rod was crashing at 11 o'clock. I determined that this adapter seats at the front rounded outer edge of the barrel shroud. Also determined that you have total control left and right with the barrel screws. So you need to grind off metal on the side it is hitting, or shim the other side for up and down adjustment. Picture attached.
I started to grind with my dremel, but quickly realized it would take a lot of grinding and keeping the profile would be difficult. So as a proof of concept I used some liquid tape to build up a 'shim'. I know this would not hold up to the heat and pressure, but it was handy and sets up quickly. After a couple attempts and adding more I was able to perfectly center the alignment rod. Of course I did not fire it like that.
Talking with StingerWorx, they did not have this issue on the one or two they tried. We discussed using copper gasket maker that is good to 700 degrees, but I have doubts that would hold up the heat and pressure. I suggested a thin metal shim that would be a half circle or a full circle that is thinner on one side. But it would also need to be dished to fit the round front edge of the barrel shroud.
StingerWorx offered a refund, and I may take him on that. But it seems like a decent idea that just needs to be polished. Does anyone else have good ideas on how to align this?
I ordered one of these 2 months ago to use with my Form 1 suppressor I made from one of the Chinese imported solvent trap kits. This was originally intended for use on my CMMG Banshee pistol. When I drilled out the baffles last year, I was paranoid about baffle strikes, so I made them sufficiently large for 10mm, even though I was only anticipating running 9mm through it. Heck, I probably overdid that, because I can nearly fit a .45 through them. But the can is 12 inches with 8 baffles, so I figured that was plenty of internal volume and restriction orifices despite the exit bore to be effective. Heck, other than the stamp, I'm into it for only $50 bucks, so I'm not gonna be anal about the performance.
I pulled the direct thread mount cap off and threaded it onto the StingerWorx mount. I didn't have a bore alignment rod/gauge, but knew my baffles were generously drilled and was willing to risk it. I'm happy to report that after nearly 900 rounds of 147 grain polycoated Blue Bullets over 3.9 grains of CFE Pistol powder, there have been no baffle strikes. And I looooooooooove this product!! I've been wanting to suppress my Sterling for sooooo long. It feeds funky bullet profiles better than my Uzi and just recoils smoother. Only my MP40 is smoother.
The Sterling has always been a crowd-pleaser with new shooters, but it is even more popular now. Nobody wants to put it down. Now I'm worried that my El Cheapo Form 1 can might simply wear out from use.