FA/AK replacement parts questions

[Mike85220]

If you replace a bolt assembly, do you have to time the bolt?

Also, do you need to headspace?

If you have a Chinese AK, do you have to use a Chinese bolt assembly?

If you have a Norinco, would the Polytech assembly be ok?

If you have all new internals, do you have to time it again?

This is assuming new parts will be used.

 

[mikillium]

Don't think so. Just slap um parts in and go to town! Should all be interchangeable

 

[Surly]

I did a posty SAR-1 and swapped in a Bulgarian bolt and eventually a Hungarian barrel. This was with a drilling fixture and the Dremil for the rail. I also rebuilt a shittily converted HTA Valmet with a polish parts set and didn't have any timing problems. No timing was necessary and the things ran like a top. I don't think the tolerances are as tight as some of the others. Make sure the bolt is in battery and the lugs are locking when the hammer falls and you'll be good to go. Also, don't use a milled receiver safety sear in a stamped receiver...that's what kb'd the Valmet with a stamped receiver. :thumbs_up

 

[aw4ever]

If you change the bolt check headspace!!!! FCG and bolt carrier should not be a problem.

 

[Mike85220]

No difference for having a 1.6mm receiver or a 1mm receiver when coming down to choosing a replacement bolt assembly?

Sorry for all the questions...

 

[Mike85220]

FCG?

How would I adjust the headspace?

 

[Surly]

No difference for having a 1.6mm receiver or a 1mm receiver when coming down to choosing a replacement bolt assembly?

Sorry for all the questions...

Not really...I wouldn't sweat it.

FCG = Fire Control Group

You'll need a set of HS gauges to check the head space. The bolt needs completely stripped and you check as you would any other weapon.

 

[Blunr_Stormo]

How would I adjust the headspace?[/QUOTE]

You need to move the barrel further in or out of the front trunnion to adjust headspace, and then install an oversized barrel pin.

 

[Surly]

How would I adjust the headspace?

You need to move the barrel further in or out of the front trunnion to adjust headspace, and then install an oversized barrel pin.[/QUOTE]

Unless it's threaded then it a whole different ball of wax.

 

[Mike85220]

Thanks guys!

 

[tunnelrat]

No difference for having a 1.6mm receiver or a 1mm receiver when coming down to choosing a replacement bolt assembly?

Sorry for all the questions...

Not for a bolt assembly but you will need to mill the barrel trunnion 0.3mm on each side if you go with the 1.6mm receiver, as your thickness will be to the inside...


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[Mike85220]

Norinco is 1.6mm correct?

What bolt assembly should I buy so that I will not have to modify?

Thank you!

 

[tunnelrat]

The 1.6mm receiver I used years ago was from Global Trades, not Norinco. You won't have to modify anything except milling the barrel trunnion.



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[Mike85220]

New question:

If I want to update the trigger assembly with a trigger that has the 'rate reducer', am I able to swap just the trigger which has this device mounted?

Or do I also need to replace the hammer?

I doubt the sear needs swapped too, but I don't want to risk it so I will ask, does it need swapped too?

I was reading about the 'rate reducer' and Mr. Kalashnikov designed it for the stamped AKMs to prevent bolt bounce! The cyclic rate drop is of course affected from retarding the hammer's drop, but it was not the actual reason for it being there. Supposedly AKMs can shoot out of battery and blow the top cover off during full auto. Bolt bounce is supposedly the culprit. This device is for safety.

 

[Jimf5]

Everything but YUGO

Hi All:
I have been "playing" with all things AK-47 for a few years and have found interchangeability between all of them good, until I got a YUGO MB70. Not too much from other AK's fit this model. This one is just a little bit longer in some places and a little shorter in others. Romaian bolts don't work nor does the front handgrips.

jimf5

 

[tunnelrat]

New question:

If I want to update the trigger assembly with a trigger that has the 'rate reducer', am I able to swap just the trigger which has this device mounted?

Or do I also need to replace the hammer?

I doubt the sear needs swapped too, but I don't want to risk it so I will ask, does it need swapped too?

I was reading about the 'rate reducer' and Mr. Kalashnikov designed it for the stamped AKMs to prevent bolt bounce! The cyclic rate drop is of course affected from retarding the hammer's drop, but it was not the actual reason for it being there. Supposedly AKMs can shoot out of battery and blow the top cover off during full auto. Bolt bounce is supposedly the culprit. This device is for safety.

The hammer has a notch at the top right ride to accomodate the rate reducer:

You may need to replace the hammer if it doesn't look like this; or you might be able to grind the notch in a regular hammer. Honestly, I'm not sure if a regular hammer will work or not...I'm just going by my set up. Also, believe it or not, there's a good video on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKhpy7NNQgc

Like you said, bolt bounce is the main reason for this device...any rate reduction will probably be very subtle, and not even worth mentioning. Hope this helps!



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"Say hello to my little friend" :jester

 

[Mike85220]

Thank you so much for the information!