Just replaced a firing pin on my wiselight. I bought it new when they first came out a d put a ton of rounds through it. This is the second firing pin I've replaced in the last year. Any guesses why this is suddenly a problem? Luckily, it's the one part wiselite still has in stock
Wiselite Sterling Firing Pin
- Thread starter gunner30
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Traveler
UZI Talk Life Member
When they first came out Wise Lite had a batch of firings that were not properly heat treated. The tips would snap off because they were too brittle. They replaced them for free back then. But that was before the company changed hands.
Before you buy another firing pin, check the size of the hole in the bolt. You can do this with a full set of drill bits. Just drop the bits into the hole for the firing pin. Note the size of the largest bit that drops in freely. Then look for a new firing pin that’s slightly smaller. There were about 6 different sizes last time I checked.
When you get the new firing, pin measure the protrusion. That’s how far the tip sticks out. If it’s sticking out too far, stone it down. Do it slowly by hand, so you don’t heat up the metal. If it gets hot, it will probably get brittle.
Also make sure the pin moves freely.
When you attach the tang/striker make sure it’s a little loose on the pin. You don’t want a tight fit. The hole in the firing pin for the retaining pin should be slightly bigger than the hole in the tang/striker.
When you have the tang/striker fitted, check to make sure it’s not sticking out too far and dragging.
The original Sterling built guns were brazed. The WLA guns have the pistol grip welded to the tube. Not having that layer of braze makes the sear ride slightly higher. A standard size tang/striker will often drag or snag on the sear and need to be fitted to the gun by stoning the bottom down. Again, it needs to be done slowly by hand, so the metal doesn’t lose the heat treatment.
The above steps are normally enough to fit a firing pin and tang/striker. Then dry fire a few times to check the firing pin tip is not rubbing. If you have a stainless-steel firing pin you use a marker on the tip so you can see any rub marks.
Before you buy another firing pin, check the size of the hole in the bolt. You can do this with a full set of drill bits. Just drop the bits into the hole for the firing pin. Note the size of the largest bit that drops in freely. Then look for a new firing pin that’s slightly smaller. There were about 6 different sizes last time I checked.
When you get the new firing, pin measure the protrusion. That’s how far the tip sticks out. If it’s sticking out too far, stone it down. Do it slowly by hand, so you don’t heat up the metal. If it gets hot, it will probably get brittle.
Also make sure the pin moves freely.
When you attach the tang/striker make sure it’s a little loose on the pin. You don’t want a tight fit. The hole in the firing pin for the retaining pin should be slightly bigger than the hole in the tang/striker.
When you have the tang/striker fitted, check to make sure it’s not sticking out too far and dragging.
The original Sterling built guns were brazed. The WLA guns have the pistol grip welded to the tube. Not having that layer of braze makes the sear ride slightly higher. A standard size tang/striker will often drag or snag on the sear and need to be fitted to the gun by stoning the bottom down. Again, it needs to be done slowly by hand, so the metal doesn’t lose the heat treatment.
The above steps are normally enough to fit a firing pin and tang/striker. Then dry fire a few times to check the firing pin tip is not rubbing. If you have a stainless-steel firing pin you use a marker on the tip so you can see any rub marks.
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