RESOLVED: Century UC9 bolts, compatible with IWI Model A bolt? And a McKay question

litfire145

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As the title states...

Back story is I have a UC9 that had a very bad Century drunken monkey conversion done to the bolt. It will not feed from the left side of the magazines, I have tested numerous magazines. You can see where the case gets hung up on the bolt as it feeds, and it destroys brass if it does pick up and attempt to feed from the left side of the mag. I have tried different magazine catches and grip frames. Same issue with them all. The right side of the magazine feeds flawlessly. You can ride the bolt slowly or let it fly forward and if it is feeding from the right side of the mag, it slips in smoothly. Left side is lucky to make it into the chamber. Sometimes it mangles the brass enough on feeding that it even stays out of battery slightly as it bent the brass enough to make it oblong on the case mouth. Again, left side of the magazine is where I will get these feeding issues. 25 or 32 round magazines make no difference.

I have tried different barrels and even turned down an smg barrel to slip into my receiver. Also, sometimes the fired case doesn't eject and finds itself lodged in front of the restrictor ring or behind the trunnion. The trunnion and restrictor ring *seem* straight. The bolt face seems to have been machined (ground?) flat to remove the lip on the FA bolt as part of Century's conversion.

I was going to order a McKay bolt until a friend offered a Model A bolt/striker assembly. My question is, will that bolt work in my receiver?

My friend will bring the bolt when he's back in my neck of the woods but that may be a few weeks/months. I would like to know if I should go ahead and get the McKay instead while they're still in stock though if there may be any question on fitment. Are the McKay bolts any good? I hear a lot of mixed reviews on them. Impossible to get ahold of in case of an issue is a common complaint, and some sort of mentions on firing pins being shaped strange?
 
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cajun 22

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Your problem might be the ejector is too high or protruding over the top of the mag. The ejector is on the left side of the bolt. If the ejector is just enough over the mag the round will encounter it as it leaves the magazine. I had a friend with a parts build and had the same issue you are having. The solution was to file the tip of the ejector back a little to clear the mag. Also be sure the bolt is not dragging on the ejector as it may be to high or the channel was not milled out deep enough in the bolt to clear it. I understand that Century modified full auto bolts for their guns.

The other issue could be the alignment of the barrel.

Good Luck and report back.
 

litfire145

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Your problem might be the ejector is too high or protruding over the top of the mag. The ejector is on the left side of the bolt. If the ejector is just enough over the mag the round will encounter it as it leaves the magazine. I had a friend with a parts build and had the same issue you are having. The solution was to file the tip of the ejector back a little to clear the mag. Also be sure the bolt is not dragging on the ejector as it may be to high or the channel was not milled out deep enough in the bolt to clear it. I understand that Century modified full auto bolts for their guns.

The other issue could be the alignment of the barrel.

Good Luck and report back.

I will be around my uzi again this weekend but in a turn of events I got that bolt from a friend sooner than expected. I hope to report back soon.
 

litfire145

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I tested the IWI bolt in the Uzi and it ran flawlessly with no ejection or feed issues. Comparing the bolt side by side with the Century converted bolt you can see where the Century drunken monkey had his eyes closed when grinding on the bolt face.

The IWI bolt is the closest one. See to the right on the bolt faces the significant amount of metal that Century ground off compared to the IWI bolt.
 

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litfire145

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Also note the ejection port size difference. IWI is on top.
 

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litfire145

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All is well and I have to say I wish I tested it before doing my Form 1 last year but I don’t regret it.
 

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litfire145

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Glad you got it figured out. Full auto bolts have the large ejection port.
Good to know. Their conversion would have worked a lot better if they spent a little more time on the details. As it was though that massive port caught a lot of cases that just barely slumped out of the receiver.

Now it tosses spent brass like never before. I hate to say but I have about as much in this as I would have had in buying a Vector or IWI off that auction website. Live and learn.
 

Member13

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About to dig out my century gun and try to get it running again.....what resolved your issues?
 

litfire145

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About to dig out my century gun and try to get it running again.....what resolved your issues?

A completely new bolt. See the attached photos for differences in the side of the bolt face. What issue are you having?
 

Member13

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It has been so long that I don't even remember the main issue. It had many so I will need to go do more testing as see what happens. I have the century bolt and one bolt converted by a member on here. I know one of the issues I had was the blocking bar or bolt cut was off so I had to take a grinder to the bolt to open it up cause it was riding too high and making contact with the top cover. These closed bolt conversions are so frustrating
 

litfire145

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It has been so long that I don't even remember the main issue. It had many so I will need to go do more testing as see what happens. I have the century bolt and one bolt converted by a member on here. I know one of the issues I had was the blocking bar or bolt cut was off so I had to take a grinder to the bolt to open it up cause it was riding too high and making contact with the top cover. These closed bolt conversions are so frustrating
Unfortunately from what I’ve read, it was only Century who really screwed these up so bad. It seems Vector had slight fit and finish issues but Century basically tossed these together as fast and cheaply as possible. There is hope, my Century runs fine now. But it took a Model A bolt assembly and striker to get me there.


At least with my set up, the UC9 striker does not interchange with my new bolt. I don’t know what your new bolt is like or what it is patterned after. If your blocking bar is off that far I’m not sure what a new bolt may do. Keep us posted.
 

SPARKY42180

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Unfortunately from what I’ve read, it was only Century who really screwed these up so bad. It seems Vector had slight fit and finish issues but Century basically tossed these together as fast and cheaply as possible. There is hope, my Century runs fine now. But it took a Model A bolt assembly and striker to get me there.


At least with my set up, the UC9 striker does not interchange with my new bolt. I don’t know what your new bolt is like or what it is patterned after. If your blocking bar is off that far I’m not sure what a new bolt may do. Keep us posted.

I have a UC9 and would like to get extra parts.

Would a striker assembly from another non UC9 Uzi work with the century bolt? Or would I need to replace the entire bolt and striker assembly?
 

litfire145

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I have a UC9 and would like to get extra parts.

Would a striker assembly from another non UC9 Uzi work with the century bolt? Or would I need to replace the entire bolt and striker assembly?

Well, I have my UC9 assembly for sale. Someone else wanted it but it fell through.

I can try tonight to get measurements between a Model A and UC9 striker assembly. Long story short, a UC9 striker/firing pin protrudes far too much in a Model A bolt and the the Model A striker/pin does not protrude from the UC9 bolt. Other reading shows this as well with other people in the past. The UC9 setup seems UC9 specific.

For longevity sake maybe buy a McKay/Vector/IWI bolt/striker.
 

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