Poor man's solution to making a UZI scope mount (as in $10.00)

TheCount

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I have tried the adding a rail to the top cover approach and was not too happy. My cover was extremely hard to the point that I could not even get a hole started. Had to go to a gunsmith friend that has a huge drill press and even he said it was very hard. Anyway, after attaching a rail and riser there was just too much wiggle for my taste. Thought I would try something else (other than spending over $100 for a custom top cover) so this is what I came up with. It cost me a whopping $10. Before mounting the tri rail be sure your barrel is screwed in 100 percent tight. Mine has absolutely no wiggle at all. Then put on the tri rail mount and first lightly tighten the screws until you are sure everything is level, then tighten well. With the Burris scope I am using I can perfectly co witness the iron sight. Might not be the coolest looking setup but it works!

Link to the mount: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BR2XH4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01

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uzi2%20copy.jpg
 

Buckxo

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Good idea for a Semi!

I need a solution for a 3 lug mount and suppressor, other than a top cover modification.

V/R

Buck
 

Funker

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Its a neat idea!
So have you shot it yet?
I was just wondering about when the barrel & mount heats up and expands and stresses the screws and then cools, If they will stay tight. Just wondering.
 

SecondAmend

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On my Uzi, no matter how tight I twist the barrel nut there's always a tiny bit of rotational play (in the ratchet) in the barrel. As such, the OP's mounting technique would not have a consistently held zero for my firearm.

Not legal advice, MHO, YVVV, etc.
 

thompson4433

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A lot of guns are surface hardened to the point where you can barely drill them.

Look up "spot anneal" on google.

You can use a blob of solder on the spot you want to drill, keep it molten for a minute with the iron and let it cool down slowly.

Try a carbide drill, the friction will spot anneal the hole and the heat won't bother the carbide.

Don't heat the steel too hot or the surrounding metal will quench it and make it harder.
 

ttman

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wouldn't this mess up the harmonics of the barrel resulting in poor accuracy?
 

Buckxo

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I would try shimming it before getting out the solder. Although, the solder is a good long term idea.

YMMV...

V/R

Buck
 

TheCount

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Went to the range. Conclusion: Mission failed! But nice try I would say.

To make a long story short, while my concept worked nicely in principle, after about 10 rounds or so the barrel developed a slight wiggle. Like another guy that posted here said he cant even get it wiggle free to start out with. So that wiggle meant a drop in accuracy which is "no bueno" for me :wiggle
 

StooperZero

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I'm gonna be making a few custom top covers this winter for mine and a few other folks, so keep that in mind.
Not out to make $ just some ideas to kick around .
 

Buckxo

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Sorry to hear that.

I'm still putting my money on the thread that has the rear sight replacement. ACE LTD made a rear replacement sight for the AK around 2000 with a rail that is rock solid. I bought two, and put one on one of my Legends.

So, I'm a believer in replacing the Uzi rear site with the rail mount as I think it will be solid. The Uzi is just not a good platform for optics without doing some type of work to it to make it stable.

V/R

Buck
 

Funker

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I would try shimming it before getting out the solder. Although, the solder is a good long term idea.

Buck

The OP mentioned how hard the top cover was. I think Thompson4433 was talking about making it easier to drill the top cover not to use solder to attach it.
 

Buckxo

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The OP mentioned how hard the top cover was. I think Thompson4433 was talking about making it easier to drill the top cover not to use solder to attach it.

He was.

I was talking about putting it on the two sides of the barrel "half moon" ring and file away till there was a hand tight fit (you could also use a weld bead). Although, I still think the ultimate solution lye's with a short rail made for the rear sight that does not interfere with top cover removal. I believe this is really the best, most convenient and stable spot on the rifle.

V/R

Buck
 

Mr Natural

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To make a long story short, while my concept worked nicely in principle, after about 10 rounds or so the barrel developed a slight wiggle. Like another guy that posted here said he cant even get it wiggle free to start out with. So that wiggle meant a drop in accuracy which is "no bueno" for me :wiggle

I recommend you do not write the project off just yet. Do an empirical test of the accuracy of the setup versus a control setup.

Rule #1 in the gun game: "You NEVER know until you actually test it." Reality trumps logic, theory and intuition.

With the optical sight mounted to the barrel itself, a slight amount of barrel movement should have little effect on the POA/POI relationship, since the sight plane moves with the barrel.

Set up two targets at 15-25 yards or so and compare side-by-side the semiauto functional accuracy of the barrel sight against some other sighting system, such as iron sights or an optical sight mounted on the receiver.

Please let us know the actual results. I have been considering a setup such as yours for several years but have not gotten around to putting one together.
 

ericzs1

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There is a company by the name of Stormwerkz that produces a nice little rail that mounts on the back of the top cover. It has clearance for cocking. It has a small threaded bracket that is almost a flush mount on the underside. It took me all of 20 minutes to install it. You may need to crimp the sides of the cover a bit at the rear to controll side to side movement but its real easy to do. It cost $50.00, steep for what it is but worth it for what it does. Check em out www.stormwerkz.com look on their optics mount page way down at the bottom. By the way my barrel was loose too Vector fixed it but the gun still wont function.
 
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