Magazine repair mandrel for Grease Gun 30rd Mags

[big_johnson_92]

I have about a dozen plus grease gun magazines that have damage to the lower few inches of the magazine body. Most of the magazines will still hold 25+ rounds. I have seen mandrels to insert into STEN and BREN magazines to fix dents, feedlips, etc. Has anyone seen something for the M3? I don't have the ability to machine one myself.

 

[slimshady]

What are the exact measurements of the inside of the magazine down there? You might get lucky and it's a standard or close to standard metal size you can get a bar of. If you can get a size that's just slightly over, a belt sander could be an option.

 

[hacker]

Dents near the bottom of the mag are easy to fix with pliers. Disassemble the mag, insert one leg of the pliers into the mag, center on the dent and squeeze.

 

[MAC MAN]

Those dented magazines make good gun stands.

 

[MitchWerbellsGhost87]

Would like something like this as well, made from aluminum, so I can cut up damaged magazines and weld the cut off pieces onto the bottom of good magazines and make “stendos”

 

[MACsAlot]

Practical Solutions should be able to fix these for you if you don't find what you are looking for. Email me pictures and I can tell you for sure if we can do it and pricing. I'm at: tina@macmachineguns.com.

Good luck.

t

 

[Deerhurst]

Would like something like this as well, made from aluminum, so I can cut up damaged magazines and weld the cut off pieces onto the bottom of good magazines and make “stendos”

You want copper not aluminum.


Aluminum has a low melting temp and can stick to steel when using as a welding backer.


Copper will not cause you issues. I use copper backers when filling in gaps in reweld. Works great. Used it with gaps as large as 1" wide in a 0.050" thick receiver.

 

[Gaujo]

I'd use the good top 2/3 to make 50 rounders.

 

[MitchWerbellsGhost87]

You want copper not aluminum.


Aluminum has a low melting temp and can stick to steel when using as a welding backer.


Copper will not cause you issues. I use copper backers when filling in gaps in reweld. Works great. Used it with gaps as large as 1" wide in a 0.050" thick receiver.

Not to derail the thread, but I’ve always used aluminum without any issues for rewelds. It has never stuck, I didn’t even realize there was a potential issue with it, I thought aluminum couldn’t be welded to steel? I’ve got all different size aluminum chunks and bars for rewelds and it has always worked fine as a heat sink/backing. now that I think of it, most of the welding jigs/heat sinks I’ve seen on the market for parts kits like stens and Uzis etc are made from aluminum. I recently did a cut up Uzi pistol kit and the rear gap was over a half of an inch in some spots and I used a 2” aluminum bar and a portion of a full size uzi aluminum welding jig and it worked nicely to fill the gaps.

The most annoying part was recreating the ribs, laying a pile of weld on there and shaping it into ribs with a cutting disc but it came out okay.

 

[Deerhurst]

Aluminum is cheap so it is used for jigs. I've done the same but never for weld backer. Every time I've used one for weld backer and not done a cold weld I end up with a melted mess I have to either machine apart or beat apart. Copper does not have those issues. I sometimes machine features into copper to use as a backer then just fill it with weld so I do not have to do much cleanup or welding in hard to reach areas. can't do that with aluminum, it'll turn into a puddle.

 

[MitchWerbellsGhost87]

Aluminum is cheap so it is used for jigs. I've done the same but never for weld backer. Every time I've used one for weld backer and not done a cold weld I end up with a melted mess I have to either machine apart or beat apart. Copper does not have those issues. I sometimes machine features into copper to use as a backer then just fill it with weld so I do not have to do much cleanup or welding in hard to reach areas. can't do that with aluminum, it'll turn into a puddle.

That’s weird i wonder why my aluminum never melts? Is it because I’m Mig welding? Is it a cooler temp? I never have any issues, I’ve been using the same aluminum heat sinks for years over and over.

 

[Deerhurst]

You are doing a good job at keeping things cool. Whatever aluminum variant you have could be slightly higher. For me 6061 or MIC6 are the easiest to get my hands on. ATP-5 is also a good replacement for MIC6 that I use often.


The melting temp vs machining ease is always a struggle at work. Having a puddle of aluminum come out of a furnace is never a good time.

 

[brenbuilds]

Copper backing bars are superior as they draw heat away from the thermal point source faster and more efficiently than aluminum. I have seen aluminum used, but copper's properties make it a more appropriate choice.

I dabble in metal casting, so I usually pour a copper bar for whatever dimensions meet my application.

 

[Deerhurst]

They both get really, really hot and because I'm dumb and impatient I have confirmed this with my bare fingers and will continue to do so in the future.

What is your pour temp on copper?.what do you do for molds?

I'm sure we are way off topic by now.