Is this a SIONICS suppressor?

gdk771

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Can someone tell me what sort of suppressor this is? Was it designed for the M10 originally? I thought it was a SIONICS but is has a different end cap than what I was expecting (one with the two holes on opposite sides). The markings are also in a different location that what I have seen before. It has on the side of it engraved:

Military Armament Corp.
Powder Springs GA USA
9MM PARA
S 2-2 005xx

I am guessing this means it was in the first batch of 500 in that series but not sure what the s 2-2 preceding it means. I also cannot get the end cap to loosen no matter what I do. It has probably been stuck for the last 40+ years however. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Does the mid section unscrew also and have the shoelace inserts in it? I don't hear anything rattling around inside when I shake it. The first stage is also a slightly different color than the second stage.


Thanks for any info you can provide.....
 

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ferndog1

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The endcaps sometimes had locktite applied on the threads. You might try soaking it in very hot water. The larger portion does unscrew, there should be shoestring eyelets inside, they are packed VERY tight, they don't rattle. Its hard to get them all back in, once removed. Cut-away suppressor photo on Page 128 of MM shows internals. In the MAC Man book on pages 127-128, shows several Powder Springs, GA suppressors, all have the markings stamped vertically, opposite of yours. RPB and SWD sold LOTS of no-paperwork, unmarked tubes and internals for DIY guys. That is why it is now illegal to posess suppressor parts.
Who is listed on the form as the manufacturer? I have seen aftermarket tubes marked Powder Springs by the builder to increase its value.

"not sure what the s 2-2 preceding it means"
The first 2 is the caliber 9mm, .45 were 1-, .380 3-. the second 2 is the year made 1972
 

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timkel

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Now there are some interesting markings. What does the F4 say about manufacturer? Is the rear tube aluminum or steel? P.S should be aluminum.
Getting the rear stage open is difficult. I have used strap wrenches with strips of an old inner tube for disassembly. The end cap should only be hand tight. There is a tool with the 2 pins that will help.
 
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Battering ram NIB

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if your gonna shoot it id consider a rebuild...ive sent 2 of mine to KGB Armament in FL...he had a quick turn around on both

I had him put normal modern threads on mine, so I can use it on any .45 subgun I own
 

LawBob

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Can someone tell me what sort of suppressor this is? Was it designed for the M10 originally? I thought it was a SIONICS but is has a different end cap than what I was expecting (one with the two holes on opposite sides). The markings are also in a different location that what I have seen before. It has on the side of it engraved:

Military Armament Corp.
Powder Springs GA USA
9MM PARA
S 2-2 005xx

I am guessing this means it was in the first batch of 500 in that series but not sure what the s 2-2 preceding it means. I also cannot get the end cap to loosen no matter what I do. It has probably been stuck for the last 40+ years however. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Does the mid section unscrew also and have the shoelace inserts in it? I don't hear anything rattling around inside when I shake it. The first stage is also a slightly different color than the second stage.


Thanks for any info you can provide.....

put KROIL on the end cap seam, and perhaps even some inside the end, roll it around to coat the internals, let it sit on it's nose. rotate it every few days for a week perhaps adding a little more KROIL or similar oil. it will soak into the threads..

time is your friend as is patience.
 

arch stanton

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If you have the spanner holes in the end cap order a spanner wrench or get a cheap one from your local harbor freight and adjustable spanner is what you need then apply some heat to it and spin it off or just send the entire can into Tom Bowers for a redo (Bowers Group)
 

herd118

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timkel

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Here's one from a Sturmgewehr ad a couple of years age, the same markings and less than 100 serial numbers away - with the matching M10:
http://www.sturmgewehr.com/forums/index.php?/topic/6851-sold-transferrable-powder-springs-m109mm-matching-sionics-suppressor-7500/
This one is pre-spanner holes, after 47 years the the wipe has probably become one with the endcap. Soaking in Kroil cant hurt, but it's going to be a mess inside if you get it apart.

Good research. So it's confirmed that it is an early Ingram suppressor. Nice score. I would like to see more pics of the end cap and what ever components you find inside.
 

challenger70rt

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The markings are interesting... they must of marked the earliest ones length wise and later ones width wise? I have a S2-200xxxx Mac can but it’s marked in the opposite direction from this one and is roughly 14-1,500 units later then this one. This got me poking around in the Mac Man book again. According to it, the very earliest 2-200 cans were actually papered January 1971, and the latest ones October of 71, before they changed up the numbering a bit.
 

gdk771

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There are no spanner holes on the endcap...

That is what had me confused. I though all SIONICS suppressors had these holes. I will check the paperwork when I get back on Wed. and see what it says with regards to the manufacturer. The end cap is identical to the sturmgewehr ad that herd118 posted. Thanks for all the info on this. Is it normal for the rear section to be a different color than the front section? Maybe different types of aluminum that anodize in slightly different colors? Sounds like I have a very early SIONICS can which is kind of neat...
 
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Super Dak©

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Hmmm, my M10 45 can has the same knurled end cap (comes off easy enough, and has the internal C-clip to replace the two wipes). But it has the more common markings location/direction, and a much later S/N (Cobray logo, with "Military Armament Corp. Powder Springs, GA. USA. S 1-3001XXX"). Form 4 shows manufacturer as MAC Marietta GA. Also came in a box with a "Drug Enforcement Administration Evidence" decal label on it, so who knows, might be a Frankenstein can.
 

Villafuego

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The Sionics suppressor I used to own (.45), was marked in a similar fashion to the one in the OP.

Both stages of the can had blued steel tubing.....approx. 1/2 of the thickness of the standard aluminum tubes commonly seen. MAC was listed as manufacturer on the F4.

The end cap was only knurled.....no takedown holes. It was staked, but I modified it to use a circlip to retain the wipes.

Single baffle, followed by 2 "spiral diffusers" in the 2nd stage...….

I shot it for many years on an Uzi with a custom bbl. nut that had external 7/8-9" threads, and a shortened bbl......it was exceptionally quiet even with a 40 year old, hard as a rock wipe. It was just as quiet (even being a .45 can) as a friends Gemtech Mossad...….we did a comparison video years ago, and there was no discernable difference 10-15 feet from the muzzle.

What's interesting is that the can shown above in the link provided by Herd118 almost seems to show evidence of rust spots. I had never seen another steel-tubed M-10 suppressor manufactured by Sionics or MAC...…...
I'll try to find some photos

There is no substitute for volume when it comes to old-school SMG cans....
 
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root

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Please do not do this.

Keep it or put it up for sale and buy a modern can if that is what you want. Classics like this need to be kept original.

I've kept min original since day one it was NIB wen purchased.

Works as advertised.

Knurled end no spanner holes and no clip. mine comes out to 1973 on the serial # marietta ga. my gun is a 1972

Wrapped around as done with the later cans not in line like the 71/72 cans or the one above.

Rich
 

gdk771

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Here is some additional info....

Both parts of the can are aluminum. I took a magnet and tested to see if it was attracted to either end. The Form 4 says M10 as the model and Military Armament Corp. GA as the manufacturer so not much of anything useful there.
I am curious about the nomex cover for this. Do all these covers have the wide stitching at the bottom as seen in the pictures?
I also noticed that the wipe on the end cap has turned into some sort of greenish color. I am going to soak this entire end in some PB Blaster to see if that will loosen the carbon / crud built up in it so I can unscrew it. Thanks to all who posted info / suggestions...
 

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timkel

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The Nomex covers were a tight fit and difficult to install when new. But I never had one tear. That wide stitch looks like it might be a repair. I do not know which covers are original pre-auction or later RPB, ect. That wipe in pic looks rotten. The endcap wipes were not made to be replacable. You would replace the entire endcap assembly. They cost $15 and were legal to buy back in the 70's. Now you can modify the endcap to allow replacing the wipes.
Some pics of covers show the stitching basically the same with minor variations. The bottom cover is the from the 70's. The top cover is 80-90's.

 
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rentprop1

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here is a pic of my cover from the other thread, I just got it complete with fake can for $25 at a local gunshow
.
20190714-234732.jpg
 

challenger70rt

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That stitching is what my cover looks like too, and I bought mine from the original owner. Gun, can and cover have been together since day one, and can is s/n matched to gun, so I would assume that’s an original Powder Springs or sionics cover
 

gdk771

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That stitching is what my cover looks like too, and I bought mine from the original owner. Gun, can and cover have been together since day one, and can is s/n matched to gun, so I would assume that’s an original Powder Springs or sionics cover


Are both ends of your can aluminum? There are some interesting variations on these it seems. Some are all aluminum or a steel / aluminum hybrid. Does your cover fit very tighly? Mine slips over somewhat easily but is not loose by any means. What exactly is the purpose of the spring on the large end of the cover? Is it supposed to keep it more securely attached?
Does your Form 4 show a city (Powder Springs?) or is it like mine with just GA as the location?
It appears the change from horizontal to vertical engraving must have taken place sometime in 1972...
rentprop1 you stole that fake can / cover for $25 !
 
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