Interesting observation about my registered Bolt.

rparsons3

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Update
For anyone interested who has a registerered bolt that’s having issues and wants to try a different recoil spring I took a standard full auto spring ground off the flange and remove the spring and cut it to 11” and it worked perfect. Oh yea I notched the buffer for the blocking bar. Hope this helps.
Mike
yep thanks, maybe my bolt will get here this decade.
 

Mikabika45

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Hi Mike,
I have had that exact recoil spring you show in the
Pic for my group reg bolt. Many, many years ago I came
Across the same issues. I talked with someone years back about
This and they told me it was an attempt to offset the difference
In bolt weight due to the slot, and hood cut outs which make the
Bolt light, therefore running at a higher cycle rate. In other words, I
Guess they were trying to match, the standard rate of fire of the original
Bolt. Anyway, never worked for me, so I opted to go with the heavier
Spring coils and never had an issue.
 

mike

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Go figure mine is just the opposite. If you ever decide to get rid of that original spring please let me know.
Thanks
 

mike

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After reading Dave’s book I thought for sure I would see something in the book about that situation with the springs and the weight difference of the bolts especially in the chapter about group industries I was surprised to find nothing. It’s a great book if you don’t have a copy you should order one up.
 

rparsons3

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Update
For anyone interested who has a registerered bolt that’s having issues and wants to try a different recoil spring I took a standard full auto spring ground off the flange and remove the spring and cut it to 11” and it worked perfect. Oh yea I notched the buffer for the blocking bar. Hope this helps.
Mike
would you happen to remember approximately how much you cut from the spring, I want to do it but do not want to take the spring off the rod, think I can cut the spring with a dremel wheel while on the rod and wind it off without grinding off the flare.
 

mike

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would you happen to remember approximately how much you cut from the spring, I want to do it but do not want to take the spring off the rod, think I can cut the spring with a dremel wheel while on the rod and wind it off without grinding off the flare.

Sorry I remember how much I cut off but with the spring off the rod it measured 11” The spring really doesn’t need to be captured on the rod it works fine when you put it in the bolt no issues at all. Give it a try springs are cheap.
 

rparsons3

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Ok, thanks, I've got several extra springs and am just tinkering with the gun and bolt. I've owned 2 FA Vectors and they always ate anything, including cheapest steel cased ammo, but occasionally my registered bolt in IMI model B will have failure to eject Tula ammo, just barely but it happens. Gonna clip a spring just a little bit and see if it stops the FTE. There is nothing rubbing or any other reason for it to happen, (except that I am a cheap old fart) and I know the stock answer is to buy stronger ammo, I have cases of both NATO spec, which runs fine and cases and cases of cheap steel (which runs great most of time and also my MACs never fail on steel. Just my being OCD a little bit, thanks for the answer.
 

rparsons3

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Follow up FYI for registered bolt owners. Did some tinkering with my set up this week. On my scale a regular IMI unslotted bolt weighs 23.9 oz and my Group slotted and clearanced bolt weighs in at 22.7 oz. I'm talking about using regular full auto springs from IMI kits. Took one spring assembly and cut 10 coils from it, I did it while still on the recoil rod, it is hard but can be done with those thin dremel grinding wheels. Shot it this morning and with steel cheap ass ammo it just chugs along like an uzi should, about the same with regular 115 gr brass ammo from various sources, switched to 124 nato spec and it speeds up a little as it should......so I am now pleased with my bolt, shot about 400 rds this morning and no failures with brass or steel. Thanks again to Mike for getting this thread started.......out

I'll also add if I had only wanted to shoot nato spec it would have worked fine with no mods to spring, as I said before I have cases and cases of cheap steel so all is good now.
 
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