Cut a semi plastic buffer today and installed it

[tommygun2000]

into my Vector between the bolt and existing buffer.
I'll be making a trip to the range tomorrow to test the rate of fire.

When cutting it, I cut off exactly 3/8ths of an inch from the untapered end of the buffer and cut it on a radial arm saw. The bolt locks back reliably manually with a bit of space behind it, but might act different at high speed while firing. I'm going to fire several mags to make sure it doesn't run away, bouncing off the buffer.

I don't want a high speed bullet hose, just a little faster to smooth out the chug chug chug that you get at the normal factory ROF.
Also have some soft buffers to try out. I'm curious to see if they get mashed up after a few mags. They were free, and dont think they'll damage anything so I'll give them a try.


I'll post the results tomorrow.

 

[pmf]

Thanks -- I'm curious to hear how it goes. I have a few buffers I want to try if I ever get my gun, and find a place to shoot it.

 

[tommygun2000]

RE: The Buffers

I only tested the plastic buffer today, and was having so much fun with it, I completely forgot about the others.
Fired more than 500 rounds and it was a blast.

I like the plastic semi buffer just the way I cut it. 3/8ths off the original length, on the untapered end, mounted between the bolt and the rear buffer.
No runaways, no jams, no misfires.
Something else I noticed, was a significant difference in the ROF using +P+ ammo with the shorter bolt travel. Previously the difference was not as pronounced. with the buffer in, it's very noticeably different.

I would estimate the rate of fire at about 900-1000 RPM.
Someday I'll find someone there with a chrono and find out exactly.

I compared the Olympic Greek ammo, reloads using 4.0 grains of 700X/115grFMJ, and the Hirtenberg +P+.

The Greek and the reloads performed pretty much the same, but the +P+ made a big difference in ROF.

I recommend the Greek ammo if anyone is interested. It performed well.

For all you UZI owners out there...scoff up that Hirtenberg +P+ as much and as fast as you can, because it is par excellence in the UZI SMG.
If I were closer to J&G sales in AZ, I'd be buying me a truck load of the stuff. The shipping kills me to the northeast.

Range was overcast, 34 degrees @ 0800 warming to 50+ by 1300. Wind was NW @ 5-10mph diminishing to 0 by noon.

Spent a while chatting with a couple of local POs who were swat snipers. Watched one of them shoot, 100 yds using a .308 Accuracy International Rifle, Nightforce scope, 22 power, Federal Match 168gr HP ammo. his set up was 5k$ (puchased with a Gov.org grant).
His shots were all in the box. He was using double headed targets that use a reducing perp silhouette behind a hostage.
He didn't make any hostage hits, but came close.
I had these guys shoot a few mags with the Uzi, as they got very little range time with the MP5 SMGs that their dept uses.
They enjoyed it very much and so did I, giving them an education in open bolt submachine guns.

Another great day at the range!

P.S....Stopped at Wally World and cleaned them out of 9mm target ammo. 800 rnds...it was all they had...I wanted 2000.
I have to have a talk with that department manager...he's leaving me short everytime I go in there!!

Can you say..addicted?

 

[pmf]

Tommygun2000 -- How did you cut the buffer? The ones I have are very hard plastic.

Glad to hear the Hirt +p+ made a difference. Some folks have been saying its the same as Winchester from Wal Mart. I bought 4800 rounds of it (4 cases) from J&G sales. I live in Virginia and the shipping is a bear. The guy at J&G said if the order goes over 50 lbs, they get a break on shipping which is why I orderd so much. Shipping for all 4800 rounds was around $60. Shipping for 1000 rounds ran $28. It came out to about twelve cents a round.

Try to find a friend who will split an order with you. It doesn't have to be all Hirt +p+ -- they have pretty good deals on other ammo as well (Wolf 9 mm for $95 a case). Since they warn to only use this stuff in appropriate weapons, I bet they aren't selling it too quickly.

 

[tommygun2000]

RE: Cutting the buffer.

Tommygun2000 -- How did you cut the buffer? The ones I have are very hard plastic.

Glad to hear the Hirt +p+ made a difference. Some folks have been saying its the same as Winchester from Wal Mart. I bought 4800 rounds of it (4 cases) from J&G sales. I live in Virginia and the shipping is a bear. The guy at J&G said if the order goes over 50 lbs, they get a break on shipping which is why I orderd so much. Shipping for all 4800 rounds was around $60. Shipping for 1000 rounds ran $28. It came out to about twelve cents a round.

Try to find a friend who will split an order with you. It doesn't have to be all Hirt +p+ -- they have pretty good deals on other ammo as well (Wolf 9 mm for $95 a case). Since they warn to only use this stuff in appropriate weapons, I bet they aren't selling it too quickly.

I cut mine using a radial arm saw. Put a piece of straight scrap stock in front of the buffer,between the buffer and the fence to stabilize it against the back fence. This allows you to hold the buffer by hand and not cut your fingers off.
It can be clamped if you can clear the travel of the saw.
I cut it just holding it by hand against the scrap stock. Cut it slowly, using a finish blade(many teeth) preferrably carbide tipped for sharpness.
The plastic these are made of appears to be a polyethylene type. As hardness goes for plastics its actually relatively soft. They work great, are cheap and virtually indestrucable. If I ever have to replace this due to damage or wear in my lifetime I'd be very surprized.

The cut was 3/8ths from the untapered end. this provided for reliable bolt locking during burst firing.
Cut it shorter to reduce the rate/increase the bolt travel.
Everyone has their preferred rate of fire. I like around 900-1000.

 

[stymie]

From what I gather (in my vast/unparalleled search for the truth)... the 3/8ths inch cut is apparently the optimum for rate-of-fire increase & safety! Of course, alwaze expect the unexpected!

 

[pmf]

So lemme get this straight ---

I cut 3/8 an inch off the buffer. The 3/8 inch piece I cut off is on the smooth end of the buffer. I discard that 3/8 inch piece and use the remained in the gun. Right?

 

[RoverDave]

Yup, you got it.

 

[mac]

It seems to me that..

about THREE good 3/8ths peices could come from buffer???? Does it really matter which end? I mean if one was to take the REAR 3/8th with the tapered end, IMHO it wouldnt make too much of a diff just for the fact that that taper is made to fit in the back like that....

But DO correct me if my line of thinking is off!!!!!! PLEASE!

Also, ...............

I need two WHOLE buffers PLEASE!

 

[RoverDave]

I agree that the functionality should be the same regardless of which end you take it off of. I'd still take it off the flat end for two reasons. It's easier to get an accurate measurement off the flat end. And it preserves the tapered end, which presumably makes it easier to get in the gun.

I know CDNN sells the buffers.

 

[pmf]

From my understanding, you shorten the buffer by 3/8 an inch. The 3/8 an inch part you throw away.

 

[RoverDave]

That is correct.

 

[mac]

...So keep the longer of the TWO peices after the cut? And install the longer of the two?

 

[RoverDave]

Correct again.

Have we made this perfectly clear yet or do I need to get the camera out???

 

[mac]

NOPE....No need for the camera! Im just an slow iggnorant newbie that NEEDS to be 100%ABSOLUTELY sure about certain aspects of lifes hobbies!

Thanks

 

[pmf]

Its very clear to me, I was just worried that the other poster was going to cut his buffer into several 3/8 inch sections. My point was that the 3/8 inch part is not the part you use.

I don't have a table saw. Think a hack saw would work OK?

 

[mac]

MY BUST!!!!!

So lemme get this straight ---

I cut 3/8 an inch off the buffer. The 3/8 inch piece I cut off is on the smooth end of the buffer. I discard that 3/8 inch piece and use the remained in the gun. Right?

And the other reply by pmf.....

SOmetimes I scroll so dang fast that I miss the MEAT of the matter...

 

[RoverDave]

NOPE....No need for the camera! Im just an slow iggnorant newbie that NEEDS to be 100%ABSOLUTELY sure about certain aspects of lifes hobbies!

Thanks

No problem, I was just giving you a hard time. The good news is that you're cutting a $5 piece of rubber. Even a total screw up won't cost you much.

A hack saw would work okay. It will be harder to get a nice straight cut and a precise measurement but it will work.

 

[tommygun2000]

Don't Use a Hacksaw!!!

Its very clear to me, I was just worried that the other poster was going to cut his buffer into several 3/8 inch sections. My point was that the 3/8 inch part is not the part you use.

I don't have a table saw. Think a hack saw would work OK?

Its important that the cut be square. otherwise there is not even distribution of the impact from the bolt. this will cause the bolt to cock sideways and rub the insides of the gun more than normal.

Use a mitre box of somekind or have someone do it in a chop saw or other type of controlled cutting device.

The front and rear of the buffer should be parallel and square to the sides.

By the way, you can keep the piece you cut off. It will not be 3/8ths though due to loss from the blade. that can be used as a buffer but will not speed the gun up much.