Another disappointing day with my M11/22

[Hey...]

Think logically. If the spent brass is leaving the chamber but staying in the ejection port then it’s not being kicked out properly.

If you trust the extractor, that leaves ejector rod length or maybe the brass is kicked at an odd angle and being deflected back in.

 

[Hey...]

Also you mention spent casings sometimes still in the chamber. That’s the extractor not hooking well over the rim, and if the spent cases are in the left side of the port again that’s the extractor not having a good hook over the rim as the ejector does its kick.

I’d get some snap caps and dykem and find out exactly what’s up with that extractor.

 

[ScottinTexas]

Think logically. If the spent brass is leaving the chamber but staying in the ejection port then it’s not being kicked out properly.

If you trust the extractor, that leaves ejector rod length or maybe the brass is kicked at an odd angle and being deflected back in.

There is no ejector rod. There is a static vertical rail from the baseplate that serves as the casing ejector. I've actually been suspicious of this as it is slightly worn so that the face the cartridge rim impacts is not purely vertical; there is the smallest amount of apparent wear at the top such that the surface is further from the chamber at the top than it is from the bottom. That's the best way I can describe it.

Maybe the brass is being deflected up and to the left instead of out to the right.

 

[Mackjack]

There is no ejector rod. There is a static vertical rail from the baseplate that serves as the casing ejector. I've actually been suspicious of this as it is slightly worn so that the face the cartridge rim impacts is not purely vertical; there is the smallest amount of apparent wear at the top such that the surface is further from the chamber at the top than it is from the bottom. That's the best way I can describe it.

Maybe the brass is being deflected up and to the left instead of out to the right.

If it's similar to a Glock. I know the angle of the tip is critical on those, will cause the brass to eject strait up vs out the right. Maybe something similar?

 

[DINK]

My guess is that the ejector is not hitting the casings consistently, if at all. When you get the fired casing rammed back into the chamber, the ejector didn't even touch the casing. Either that or the bolt didn't go far enough back to expose the ejector. If the casing is left floating around inside the receiver and getting in the way, either the extractor isn't providing a good firm pivot point for the casing to revolve around or the ejector isn't giving the casing a good pop.

In the 9mm AR-15, it is common to have to bend the ejector so the tip of it is as close to the center of the bolt face as possible without actually binding the bolt. If it's too far away from the center of the bolt face, the casing can slip right by it and cause a failure to eject. If you can get the ejector nice and tight towards the center of the bolt face, it will give you good contact on the casing.

If you have some dummy cartridges, try chambering one and then slowly draw the bolt to the rear while looking in the ejection port. If the ejector doesn't give the casing a good push, you have to figure out how to modify it so it does.

 

[IndustrialRescue]

I wouldn’t de-virgin a NIB MG over a .22 kit.

Agreed.

My M11/22 kit worked best with the Federal bulk pack stuff. Copper plated 36grn high velocity hollowpoints. Which was nice, as it's what I've got the most of.

 

[rhouston8]

It's threads like these that make me glad I gave up on ALL .22 cal conv mg kits- whether hk, mac, uzi, i dont care.
If I want to shoot a 22 mg I'll buy a norrell or a am180 (which has its own host of issues usually ).

I get the quiet, the cheap, the speed.
But loading those mags to what 17 rnds (bc 20 would cause it to jam /rim lock), and the constant tinkering and extremely ammo sensitive nature of these 22 beasts...screw it all to heck I say.

maybe one day after all my other gun projects are finished I'll give the 22 kit world another whirl. until then...

 

[Offmarksman]

I’m in the same boat. Seems like to me 90% is about as reliable as .22lr gets. By the time you buy “good” .22lr ammunition, you aren’t all that much cheaper than bulk 9mm, and You don’t have all the headaches. The .22 is really dirty too, which also adds to the un-reliability. I have a .22 kit for the AC556 which runs pretty good, and allows me to shoot it on the subgun range, but I have put the Mac .22 at the bottom of my to do list (and that’s even below the wife’s honey do list)...

 

[ScottinTexas]

 

[Offmarksman]

If It’s not extracting and re-chambering the spent round, And not picking up a new round behind it, then it’s short stroking and/or binding before the spent case hits the raised portion on the “rail” the bolt rides on, that takes the place of an ejector rod. Does everything work smooth with .22 dummy rounds? While most likely not your problem, one problem I was having with my Lage .22 kit was forward and aft movement of the “rail” and barrel assembly. I had the barrel threaded and put a muzzle brake on the end which when tightened stopped all movement in the rail/barrel assembly. This improved reliability greatly, but I never got it to run close to the 100% that I wanted.

 

[ScottinTexas]

I ran some dummy .22 rounds through it, slowly. They extract, hit the rail/ejector and exit.

My barrel is also threaded and the Thruster adapter forces it all to lock up tightly. The plate/barrel assembly do not move at all.

The 'ejector rail' impact surface appeared to have a worn face, sloping rearward. I filed it flush; couldn't hurt.

I'm taking it out Sunday with 6 kinds of ammo.

 

[BuffDragon]

good luck. like I've said in other posts, both of my kits run 98% or so. and are a ton of fun to shoot.
I've had a new lage 9mm upper and a max11/15 upper for a while now and havent shot either. if I get a chance to run a few quick mags.....its still thru the 22 upper/kit that lives on the gun.

 

[skoda]

Last week I ran 1000 rounds of cheapo 9mm, switched upper and ran 800+ rounds of 22LR Remington Golden. I had about as many failures with 9mm as I did with 22LR. Once you get it running right it should be 98+% reliable. Keep working on it, don't give up.

I do run a muzzle booster. I also took the semiauto disconnector out of the trigger mechanism to reduce drag on the bolt. Who shoots an M11 on semi anyhow?

 

[ScottinTexas]

Any harm in removing the trip before another round of testing? The kit only runs in FA anyway.

 

[cajun 22]

No harm. I removed the trip out the gun. My .22 kit works fine.

Good Luck

 

[garandman]

I found my Max 11 / 22 kit has about 2-3 hang ups per mag, when I try burst fire. Mag dumps are pretty much 90% g-t-g.

The heavier and hotter the ammo, the better.


I need to remove my semi trip. 22rf is just too underpowered.

 

[garandman]

] Who shoots an M11 on semi anyhow?

Semi in a Max 11 / 9 is easily done with the trigger finger.

 

[garandman]

So...after about 2 years of not shooting it, took the Max 11/22 out today. Out of some 200 rounds fired, had 1 FTFire, due to bad primer. 0 other FTFire / FTFeed / FTEject. Scratch what I said above. I got 3 new Lage mags, and fully inserted them all the way up into the mag well. The new mags *seem* to have heavier springs than the ones I bought 5+ year ago. Time to order more mags.

I shot CCI SV, Rem Golden Bullet, CCI Mini Mag and Rem 22 Thunderbolt

Here's what (I think) I've concluded about the Max 11/22 kit:

1. The Max 11/22 kit with the longer barrel *may* help function, over the M11/22 kit, building additional pressure. At least logically.
2. Run the kit lubed and clean as possible.
3. Suppressed is fun, but there's no free lunch. Dirt / gunk from suppressor back pressure has its negatives.
4. Engage the trigger fast, and disengage it fast as well. Come off the trigger quick.
5. Basically, reduce any friction / drag / resistance as much as possible
6. 1070 fps @ muzzle (CCI SV) is sufficient energy to run this thing.
7. Fun, fun, fun !!!!!!

 

[JohnFreeman]

Great thread.

Mine works pretty well with minimags, but it took a while to break in to get to this stage.

 

[ScottinTexas]

Well, I finally made it to the range. I have glad tidings, to quote Linus Van Pelt.

I read this thread a couple of times and paid heed.

1. When cycling manually, no magazine, I noticed the bolt would drag ever so slightly when the trigger was pulled and I was holding the knocking knob as the bolt moved forward. I also noticed this drag went away usually if I pulled the trigger just a hair more. In other words, I think Vegas was right; you have to pull the trigger back as fast and far as you can and not let up so much as a millimeter.
2. I removed the trip.

I have ten mags and I loaded them with a variety of ammo.

In short, Minimags (36 gr or 40 gr) work very well, the one mag of RGB 36 gr was perfect. The last two mags may have been impacted by the previous ~300 rounds so might not be a fair test. Next time I will try the RGB 40 grain first.

In virtually all cases, any malfunction was caused by a round that failed to eject properly and that spent case caused the bolt to either not fully close or just stopped it from having enough force to ignited the newly chambered round.


Magazine/Round/FTEject/FTFeed
#1/CCI Stinger/32 gr/2/2
#2/RGB/36 gr/0/0 Perfect!
#3/CCI Velocitor/40 gr/1/1
#4/CCI Velocitor/40 gr/1/1
#5/CCI MM/40 gr/1/1
#6/CCI MM/40 gr/1/1
#7/CCI MM/36 gr/0/0 Perfect!
#8/CCI MM/36 g/0/0 Perfect!
#9/Fed. Champ/36 gr/10/10
#10/RGB/40 gr/4/4