3D Printing - is it time to jump in?

[Alaska_Shooter]

I know nothing about printing but have an IT background. I’m looking at the Bambu X1. I want to print this chassis and brace for the FRT TX22

Any tips on what printer I should buy and how to start with 3D printing?

I want to get a higher capability machine so that I don’t get through the learning curve and then need to upgrade for gun projects

 

[ericthered]

3d printing has come a very long way. I started with a Ender 3 and would not wish that on anybody.
The biggest issue I have with Bambu Lab, and why I would not buy one, is an issue with the company itself. I dont know if they rolled back the "feature" as they did get a lot of backlash from the 2a print crowd. They made it so that you have to use their "cloud" service to send files to your printer from your computer. For me, that is a big nope. There is enough online invasion of my privacy that I wont pay to have even more. And whether I am prototyping a gun design, or printing somebody elses, they dont need to database me, or keep track of what and how many I printed.
Anyway, enough tinfoil rant lol.
I am using a Prusa MK4S right now, it works really well. The ones with a enclosure will be a little better. I made a enclosure out of foam insulation panels. It works really good.
Prusa can either manually transfer files carrying a usb drive, or you can either use wifi on your local network or a ethernet cable.
I was planning on looking into the creality K2 stuff when it came time to add one. I havent checked the details on them. If they figured out how to make a good printer, they may be the ticket.
If you did get a Prusa, the unassembled version will take nearly a day to put together for the first time. Having done it, it is worth it to pay extra for the assembled version.

Since Im rambling, something to bear in mind with printing. Since you are using low melting point plastic, it is temperature sensitive. I have a friend who left his Orca in his pickup in a gun case on a summer day. The plastic softened and the FCG moved way out of spec. I did make a bunch of grease gun hangers for my work pickups, and have not had any issues with them though.

 

[medphys]

If you did get a Prusa, the unassembled version will take nearly a day to put together for the first time. Having done it, it is worth it to pay extra for the assembled version.

I bought an ANET A6 almost 10 years ago. I need to get it back going honestly though. It's definitely an tinkerers printer and I know there's way nicer ones out there now.

That being said, the assembly process was very enjoyable and you learn a lot about how they operate.

And your choice of Slicer can make or break you lol. I struggled to get quality prints until I switched to Prusa.

 

[KickStand]

Bambu labs is a stupid fast morning. My friend got one about two years ago and I had to stop by his house to see it for myself.

I’ve got an OLD Prusa (it’s running now too). I’ve used it and abused it, it’s held up perfect too. It’s fantastic but old and slow.

I’d do your research and get what you think will be best for you (price, speed, print material, ease of use and so on).

 

[root]

Another down vote for Bamboo printer made in chyna.
I have a 6 year old prusa that is still going with no issues I assembled myself.
I'll pick up the new core1 sooner or later.

I don't like the way bamboo handles your data.
Lots of guys say just put it on the local network.
For me that is a no go since my printer is located where there is no network.
I need a stand alone unit.
Prusa will do networks or stand alone. It is my understanding bamboo will not do stand alone.
And even if it will I just like prusa for their open source and on demand live tech support.
I used it a lot when I 1st assembled it, I was zero exp. with a 3d printer.
They had me dialed in in 30 minutes.

 

[Deerhurst]

I bought an ANET A6 almost 10 years ago. I need to get it back going honestly though. It's definitely an tinkerers printer and I know there's way nicer ones out there now.

That being said, the assembly process was very enjoyable and you learn a lot about how they operate.

And your choice of Slicer can make or break you lol. I struggled to get quality prints until I switched to Prusa.

I started with a Delta printer (just dont) and went to an Anet A8. It printed so many things for me. Its in a friends hobby room now. I now run an Ender 3 and make prints the rival most FDM printed things you can buy online. Bone stock with a decent bed. An early first gen Ender 3. We have some high dollar printers at work and the only one that can rival my Ender 3 is the $3500 Snapmaker Artisan (which is worth every penny). Prusa hasnt impressed me. I can do the same quality prints for much cheaper.

With my Ender I care about quality, not speed. Its just not as rigid or powerful as something like that Snapmaker. The lowly Ender 3 has been a very low maintenance printer. Ive got so many hours on it the bed was warped almost to unusable from thermal cycles. Itll probably cost a whole $20 to replace the bed and keep going.

Cura is all Ill use for a slicer, both for hobby and professionally.

If you want to go hard into the hobby get the Snapmaker Artisan. They are currently $3K (which is a lot) but it gives you a 400x400x400 dual extruder FDM printer, a 40w 455nm laser, a 200w CNC head that is capable of aluminum and softer material. With all of that $3K is actually dang good. I use one at work. I can hold +/-0.002" in aluminum with it and I have little CNC knowledge or experiance. I make fixtures for lasers with it most of the time. Ive made parts in aluminum, fiberglass, teflon, nylon, UHMW, delrin, etc with it. With the 40w laser I can burn thru fiberglass, easily (too much power) mark steels, etch ceramics and even do colors in stainless. I want one for home but less than zero space to put one.

 

[Mr.Maim]

Get the X1, you'll be printing within one hour of unboxing.

If you want an even larger print area look at the Bambu H2S (single nozzle) or H2D (dual nozzle). They're even faster than the X1.

You can bypass the Bambu cloud printing. Instructions to do so have been out since 2023. In doing so you have to use an SD card to move the print file from your computer to the printer, and can't watch the printing in process on your phone or computer while it is printing, that is the only change in functionality.


3D printing is a hobby in-and-of itself. Keep that in mind. There will be a learning curve, but the entry into the hobby is so much easier now. I've been doing this for a while and went through early Ender and Prusa printers. I would not wish those on anyone. Bambu changed the hobby with their "unbox and start printing" ecosystem in 2022 and everyone else has been trying to catch up ever since.

 

[Alaska_Shooter]

I appreciate the info. I also need to see it there are enough 2A projects to make the new hobby worth it.

What have you guys found on that front?

 

[medphys]

I appreciate the info. I also need to see it there are enough 2A projects to make the new hobby worth it.

What have you guys found on that front?

That's the challenge. Once you get it going, you're looking for stuff to make lol.

I designed and made a bunch of mag loaders for the STEn mags for the Max 31. Also the Uzi Pro mag to CZ Scorpion adapters. Some other CZ Scorpion stuff.

But also other non 2A stuff. Lots of stuff sitting on Thingiverse.

 

[ericthered]

I appreciate the info. I also need to see it there are enough 2A projects to make the new hobby worth it.

What have you guys found on that front?

A good site that compiles a list of files is https://guncadindex.com/
They have crawlers that search for files. So it will always update.
There are a lot of trash files out there that are not worth the plastic to print. And some that are decent. Hoffman tactical has some pretty good files. There is also the m1337. Which is expensive to print, and expensive to make (I have it printed, just dont have the components yet).
The FGC9 is interesting on the basis of how much you can diy on it (you print jigs to EDM the barrel).
For handguns, in my opinion, the Chairmanwon is the best glock design. It doesn't have the lousy grip design that glocks have. My itty bitty little hands fit it better. It is compatible with the slides and rail components that are commonly sold.

You will see a lot of "remixes" where someone either changed the design to be more practical, different aesthetic, or to be less practical. It is open source as well, so design quality will vary a lot on a lot of things. Most of what you will come accross is either usefull, or a joke (literally).

 

[ericthered]

In my opinion, you will get the most value and satisfaction out of a 3d printer if you learn to do some CAD. I use Fusion 360, which has some things that I dont like, but is overall a pretty good program. I use the free version.
Freecad 1.0 is as the name implies free. They recently updated it (to 1.0) and now it is useable. I have been considering switching to it on my linux machine (works on windows to).
I have never used it, but tinkercad is free. But it is web based, so that data thing again.

 

[Alaska_Shooter]

A good site that compiles a list of files is https://guncadindex.com/

Thanks especially for this!

 

[root]

For 2a stuff I don't print much at all.
Shotgun shell holders for my SBS mossberg.
The weight boxes for the tx22
And a bolt jig for converting pps43 FA bolts to semi although I never used it.
I already have a great setup for those funky shaped bolts for my lathe.

I bought my printer fpr sci-fi models and RC parts.
I doubt the board has enough bandwith for me to type all that stuff over the last 6 years.
I've thought of printing Hoffman's ORCA as it looks really cool but I've never gotten the motivation since I guess I'm old skewl with parts kits and prefer to weld & fabricate.
Don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with 3d guns hell the Myanmar civilians are printing them in a country where guns are verboten.
They seem to like the FGC-9.

Very interesting read with tons of 3d printed arms

3D-printed guns are being used in the Myanmar civil war

Additive manufacturing, also known as 3D printing, allows for the production of parts without the need for full-scale manufacturing.

www.wearethemighty.com

 

[Deerhurst]

I appreciate the info. I also need to see it there are enough 2A projects to make the new hobby worth it.

What have you guys found on that front?

Odysee will keep you going for years.

 

[slimshady]

There are all sorts of things you can print besides gun stuff. I have an ender 3 pro I tried to upgrade and so far I haven't got it to work. I need to get back on that. But when it was running in stock form my boss's friend was into Old Honda mopeds and one was missing a long discontinued battery cover. He happened to teach CAD at a local community college and he made the file for it as a class project using one from another one of his bikes. Took a weekend to print it out but with a little bit of wet sanding and some polishing it looks like a brand new part from Honda, fit like it too.

Printed a control cable end that snaps over the throttle linkage on a Dodge truck that controls the throttle valve on the transmission. About 10 cents of plastic and a couple hours versus $27.99 and next day delivery for Amazon. Irony here is ordered part too just to be safe and it was 3D printed as well.

And there's plenty of gun stuff too. Forming dies to roll an MP5 flat, along with locating jigs for welding a rear sight base on straight, drilling the flapper mag release axle hole, etc. a Mr bullet feeder clone for about $60 worth of plastic and hardware. Adapters to take the output from the Dillon case feeder and send it to other presses. Other various reloading parts and accessories.

Not to mention receivers, check out the NYLAUG receiver that lets you build a semi-auto AUG bullpup rifle using a relatively cheap parts kit and a modified AR-15 barrel. Parts you need for the conversion are available. The actual receiver is fairly straightforward, requiring minimum machining from a casting. They make plastic filament designed to burn away whenever you fire the ceramic mold you have formed around it from a slurry. Melt in the proper mix of Chevy to Ford Pistons and break away the ceramic and you're well on your way to a factory spec receiver.

 

[Alaska_Shooter]

The X1C is on sale for $999.

Lots of online people recommend the H2S combo over the X1C. The H2S isn’t on sale and is $1500 for the combo

Do you guys have any opinion between the two?

 

[skoda]

I'm also intending to get a 3D printer but I want something that can print the 'high performance' materials and can do it with really good detail and accuracy. Does anyone have any experience with the higher grade materials?

 

[Alaska_Shooter]

That’s also why I was looking at the H2S with the heated chamber

 

[MANCAVEVETERAN]

I printed these with my Bambu Mini.
Left is the printed one painted with 8-10 layers of flat black spray paint and the right is what it looked like fresh off the printer.
This fit nice and tight. I just had to drill out the dust cover door pin out with a 1/8” bit to get a smoother fit.

 

[Deerhurst]

I'm also intending to get a 3D printer but I want something that can print the 'high performance' materials and can do it with really good detail and accuracy. Does anyone have any experience with the higher grade materials?

Depends on what you consider a "High Performance" material.

I do resin and FDM printing as part of my engineering job. Some of it is prototype, some is end product and some of it is prototype that works so well I can't get it back from production for the end product part! I have done things ranging from simple button holders that hold silencer buttons down with magnets to motor mounts and flex couplings from materials ranging from cheap nasty PLA to carbon nylon, fiber reinforced high temp (150c) PLAs, flexible filaments and resins, machinable resins, etc.